News in Cortland NY

 

If there is ample food and a place to live, removing the resident animal will just create a vacant territory for another one to move into. Preventive measures have proven to be less costly and less stressful for both wildlife and the homeowner in the long term.

Although live trapping and relocation has been widely used as a method of wildlife control, it is not a long-term solution. Most wild animals are territorial, so relocating them somewhere else not only fails to solve local problems, but often creates new problems at the release site by upsetting the natural balance of existing populations.

Source: http://www.magi.com/%7Ecfhs/skunk.htm (Canadian Federation of Humane Societies), www.urbanwildliferescue.org.

 

SKUNK CHARACTERISTICS

Skunks are burrowing animals that choose to make their dens under porches, decks, sheds, in wood or rock piles and are capable of digging a den a foot underground. They are nocturnal omnivores, feeding on plants, insects, small mammals, bird eggs and fallen fruits. They do not hibernate and several females may den together over the winter.

Skunks are rarely aggressive unless cornered or defending their young. If approached or threatened and unable to flee, a skunk will usually fluff its fur, lift its tail, stamp the ground with its front feet, and growl. If these actions are not effective in discouraging the intruder, it will lift its tail up over its head and spray. The chemical skunks spray is a sulphur compound that is ejected from two small openings near the rectum. The glands that produce the chemical hold enough for five or six full-powered sprays that can be accurate up to 4 ½ meters. Skunks seldom spray without warning or cause.

Skunks have adapted to urban habitats and have become proficient city dwellers. This often brings them into conflict with homeowners as the animals seek food and shelter.

 

SKUNKS AND THE SEASONS

Winter

Skunks do not hibernate in the winter but they may stay in their dens for several weeks during harsh weather, sometimes with several females sharing the same den. They mate in late winter. Removal attempts should not be made at this time because access to alternative den sites is limited due to the snow and ice. Also the frozen ground makes animal-proofing difficult.

Spring

No attempts should be made to remove animals in the spring because babies may be abandoned. Skunks mate in late winter with four to seven babies born usually in the month of May. The young are born blind and with sparse hair. When they are weaned at six to seven weeks old they have developed their scent, but they are not accurate when they spray. It may take up to eight weeks before the babies are mobile and can be seen walking single file with the mother. Like most animals, the mother is very protective of her young. If startled, she will snarl, stomp her feet and chatter her teeth. If these warning signs are not heeded, the skunk will lift its tail over its head and spray.

Summer

Once the babies are seen outside with the mother, attempts at removal can begin. The importance of making sure that all the animals are out of the den cannot be overemphasized. It may take the runt of the litter several days longer than its siblings to gain the strength to leave the den with the rest of the family.

Fall

During the fall, skunk families will disband. They may be more likely to spray at this time of year as they are defending their den site. They may damage lawns as they dig for grubs until the ground freezes.

 

PREVENTION

Decks should be closed in so that animals cannot get underneath (see problem solving) and garage doors should be securely closed. Skunks may be attracted inside a garage if the door has been left open and there is garbage inside. If this happens, enter the garage speaking in a low, soothing voice to make the skunk aware of your presence without startling it. Remove the garbage and sprinkle flour across the opening. Wait until dusk and check for footprints leaving the garage. Garbage cans, composters and bird feeders must be animal-proof.

Insects and grubs are a significant food source for skunks and the presence of them in your lawn may cause skunks to come digging. To avoid this problem, use a non-toxic animal repellent in the fall to discourage animal activity. An electrical fence with no more than a nine-volt charge can also be used as a deterrent that will not harm the animals. The fence should be set up for at least four weeks to give the lawn a chance to recover and to change the animals' pattern of foraging in your yard.

 

PROBLEM SOLVING

Skunks are not good climbers so they cannot get into attics and chimneys. Instead they burrow under foundations of buildings or under decking. Skunks are usually smelled before they are seen. A persistent, faint skunk odor likely indicates that a skunk has taken up residence nearby. Look for a hole 10 to 25 cm in diameter under a building, deck or woodpile. To find out if this is an active den, cover the hole with loose dirt and allow three to four days to see if the dirt is dug out, unless it is winter when the animals may stay inside for several weeks. Attempts should not be made to remove animals in the winter or spring.

Once you have determined where the skunks are getting in, and it is not winter or spring, dig a trench 15 to 20 cm deep and 20 cm wide in the soil around the perimeter of the deck or shed. Place galvanized 1" by 1" wire mesh into the trench, bending it outward in an 'L' configuration at the bottom, and fill in the trench. (Do not use chicken wire as it can stretch and an animal could get its head caught in it.) Be sure to leave an opening large enough to allow the animals to exit. Once the wire mesh is secured, place a large ball of newspaper in the exit hole or fill it with soil to allow you to monitor when the animals leave. Monitor the opening daily after sunset to see if the barrier is removed. Flour can also be sprinkled around the opening to check for footprints.

Before closing the entry hole permanently you must ensure that all the animals have gone. To do this, place a bit of food, such as fish or peanut butter, inside the hole so that only an animal inside could get it. Cover the hole with galvanized steel screening in such a way that it can be removed to check the food or if an animal is locked inside. Check the hole every day and if it remains untouched for several days (except in winter or spring when removal should not be attempted), you have been successful. If the food is gone, indicating that an animal is still inside, open the entrance hole, allow time for it to leave and conduct the test again. It is important that someone is available for several days to check the food inside, monitor for digging, and listen for noises that may indicate an animal trapped inside. If an animal is trapped inside you will have to open up the hole and start again.

Typically skunks will attempt to return to their previous den so be sure it is firmly sealed. If an animal is seen frantically pacing and digging at the den area, especially during daylight hours, assume that babies are inside and open the entry hole immediately. Wait until the babies have been seen exiting with the mother before attempting to seal the hole and conducting the food test again.

 

SKUNK ODOR

If skunk odor has penetrated your house, air it out thoroughly using fans. You may have to place fans under the house as that is usually where the odor originates. Spraying an acidic solution like diluted vinegar can help counteract the smell. Chlorine bleach, ammonia or products containing neutroleum alpha can be used to clean inanimate objects. Protective eye wear and a mask should be used when cleaning skunk-sprayed items.

An unfortunate person who is sprayed by a skunk should wash their skin as soon as possible with carbolic soap, tomato juice or vinegar. If sprayed in the eyes, temporary blindness may result, as well as extreme irritation, but there should be no permanent damage. Clothes may have to be discarded, although in less severe cases they may be salvaged by repeatedly washing in vinegar water and hanging outside for about a month before dry- cleaning.

For pets that encounter a skunk's best defensive mechanism, immediate action is the key to removing or at least relieving the smell. The pet should be washed as soon as possible with tomato juice, diluted vinegar, toothpaste or a commercial product sold for this purpose, being careful to keep the substance away from the eyes. Leave the product on for several minutes before rinsing.

 

LIVE TRAPPING

Although live trapping and relocation has been widely used as a method of wildlife control, it is not a long-term solution. Most wild animals are territorial, so relocating them somewhere else not only fails to solve local problems, but often creates new problems at the release site by upsetting the natural balance of existing populations.

Animals relocated often do not survive. Relocation also facilitates the spread of disease from one area to another. In addition to the target animal, a baited trap may attract other animals including domestic animals to the area.

As an alternative to removing them with traps, animals should be encouraged to leave on their own using the methods described in PREVENTION. By using these passive methods the disturbance to the animals is minimized and unnecessary stress and suffering is avoided.

However, the Mayor's Office has a list of those licensed by New York State to trap and remove Nuisance Wildlife within Cortland County. There is a fee for this service that varies among trappers. To obtain a list of such trappers, contact the Mayor's Office by phone at 607-753-0872, by fax to 607-753-0385, or by e-mail to mayorofc@cortland.org.

 

REPELLANTS

If a skunk is found under a building, encourage it to leave by placing generous amounts of mothballs, naphthalene flakes, paradichlorobenzene crystal-filled cloth bags, ammonia-soaked cloths, or possibly a radio, under the building. Attach the bags or cloths to a string so they can be removed later.

To determine if the animal has left, sprinkle a layer of flour at the entrance to make the direction of the tracks visible. Because skunks are nocturnal, check the area a few hours after dark. Once the animal is gone, seal the entrance to prevent further occurrences.

If there is doubt regarding how many skunks are under the building, use a one-way, 1/4-inch hardware cloth door. The door, hinged at the top, should extend beyond the entrance and outward at the base at a right angle for about 6 inches. This design enables skunks to push their way out, but their weight on the door prevents them from re-entering.